Christmas in Italy

I hope anyone reading this had a wonderful Christmas.  I know mine was.  How could it be anything but?  Actually, I didn't know how I would feel come Christmas Eve being so far from my family and not being able to participate in all of our family traditions.  Everything in my life is so new and there's been more change in a few months than most people have in years!  But the day came and it didn't really feel like Christmas, not that I can even describe what that feeling should be.  I'm sure it had to be the fact that I'm in unfamiliar surroundings, there is no snow here and there was no big family function to attend.

So Nick and I headed out to make new Christmas memories and our first stop was Bolzano, Italy to an archaeological museum.  The exhibit we were intent on seeing was that of the Iceman, Otzi.  It was truly fascinating!  This man lived an estimated 4,000 years ago and was discovered in 1991 by some hikers.  He's now on display in a temperature controlled room along with all of the artifacts that were found with him.  It was extremely interesting and I would highly recommend seeing this exhibit if it ever comes to the States.

After our museum tour the time was about 2pm, which is right at the start of riposo, much like a siesta in Latin countries.  So all of the cafes and shops were closing for a few hours, or possibly the day since it was Christmas Eve.  Nick and I have found ourselves in the predicament more than once since we are so used to everything being open all the time like it is back home.  Luckily there was a vendor in the square selling what seemed to be an Italian/Austrian/German-type sausage on the most delicious bread.  Worked out perfectly!

Our next stop was to check into our bed & breakfast located in Faver.  Nick and I really had no idea where we were going and just punched in the address into the GPS.  Thank goodness for those inventions!  We traveled on the most beautiful mountain road with these amazing views of the Dolomite's all around us.  Our little, old car hung right in there.  My wish for this Christmas was to see snow, pine trees and mountains.  I received all of that and so much more on that drive.

We reached our B&B at dusk and we were in for another great experience.  Our innkeeper Maria was about as sweet and welcoming as you can be.  We were greeted with coffee and cookies, a lovely modern European room, a common area with a fireplace and dinner in the restaurant on the ground floor would be just for us.  We were the only ones at the inn!

After we settled in we drove over to Trento to check out the Christmas market.  It was exactly what you might imagine a market to be at Christmastime, in a small Italian town.  The atmosphere was festive with tons of people out shopping and partaking in food from the vendors and a warm wine drink called vin brule.  Nick and I tried one and I'm not sure what all the spices were but it made me cough with just about every sip!  Sort of embarrassing.

Back to our inn....we had the most amazing dinner of sardines, anchovies, seafood pasta and braised beef in a red wine sauce.  It was not the typical corn chowder soup that my mother makes at home every Christmas Eve but it was the perfect way to end our day.

Then onto the presents!  Nick and I put up a small tree (sent to us by my mom), had wine by the fireplace and exchanged gifts.  Nick gave me a vase and necklace made of Murano glass (beautiful!) plus more.  I could not have asked for better memories of mine and Nick's first Christmas together.  I wouldn't change a thing.

Christmas morning arrived and our plan was to find a place to ski.  Ski resorts in Italy are not exactly laid out in the same way that resorts are in the States.  It's tough to describe since I'm still a little confused on how we got to where we went.  But it seems that all the slopes are connected via chair lifts and trams and that multiple resorts may have the same name because they are all part of the same mountain.  At any rate, Nick picked an option on the GPS and we decided to hope for the best.  And it worked out just fine!  Well, it was fine until we got off the lift and I looked down the hill.  The slope was much steeper than anything I'd ever gone down before.  Granted, I've only been skiing 6 or 7 times in my life.  And some of those times were in Minnesota, where we don't have any mountains.  So this situation really wasn't my dream come true.

For the first 15 minutes of our Christmas Day ski adventure I stood and looked down the hill trying to figure out how I was ever going to get down.  Nick was a few feet ahead of me and kept trying to coax me into skiing towards him.  I wasn't having it.  Nick:  come here.  Me:  no.  And this is how it went until I accepted the fact that I didn't have a choice but to go down.  I actually made it down by making very wide turns and incorporating the snow-plow technique.  It was not cute or pretty but I accomplished the goal.  We tried going up different routes to find some hills that would be more my 'speed' but that never really happened.  That mountain didn't have anything other than intermediate or expert runs.  So I called it a day at about 2pm and felt satisfied with my efforts.  I know that the more I challenge myself the better I'll become so hopefully the next ski trip will go better for me.

Aside from the stress of the skiing, the mountains around us were breathtaking.  The views can't be adequately captured on our camera but we tried nonetheless.  Again, another great memory of our first Christmas together.

The fun part about having a GPS device is that you can ask it to find alternate routes that take you off the interstate (autostrata here) and you discover towns or see amazing scenery that you would otherwise never see.  We avoided the autostrata on our way to Bolzano but we were low on gas and took the autostrata on the way home.  We drove less than half-way on the autostrata when the GPS asked us to get off and we started taking a road that took us through the mountains.  We're still not sure why the GPS thought it would be faster or shorter to go this route but as a result we drove on a narrow, winding and slow-going road that was literally perched on the edge of the mountain.  I was sitting on the passenger side, which was the outside of the road.  I could look down and down and down  for what seemed like forever.  There were mountain peaks that were just across the valley from us that appeared to be just as high as we were!  I took turns being fascinated and being car sick.  I will never forget this drive.  Or the fact that after an hour and a half the GPS took us back to the autostrata for some unknown rason.  Interesting.

When we got home around 6pm Christmas night, it was only 10am in Mexico, which is where my mom, brother, sister-in-law and my 2 little nephews were spending the holiday.  So we were able to skype with them for a few hours.  I actually watched my nephews open their Christmas gifts!  I'm so thankful for modern technology right now.  I was able to be so far from home and yet feel like I was right there with them.  It was the perfect end to our perfect Christmas weekend. 

Vicenza

There's nothing like a brisk run on a chilly morning with snow-capped mountains for a view.  We can't always see the mountains since we're down in a valley that can be quite foggy.  Plus it's winter so many days are cloudy and rainy.  I ran by a home that had an outdoor kitchen!  There was a wood-burning stone oven/stove and a table that seats 6.  A little further down my path I ran by the cutest little elderly woman dressed in a black dress, black stocking, black shoes, gray apron and black scarf over her head.  My little village really is about as Italian as you can get.  It's still mind-blowing to me that this is my home!

While San Pietro in Gu is our village, our city is Vicenza.  Vicenza is about 8 miles away and it's where we work, shop and catch the train or bus for other cities.  The first weekend I lived here, Nick and I walked up a VERY LARGE HILL called Mount Berico.  At the top is a cathedral and some great views of the city. 

Just recently I joined in a welcome orientation called Benvenuti for Americans that just moved to Vicenza.  It was a great opportunity to meet other newcomers and also see our city.  We explored the downtown area mostly and spent some time at the local market.  There is a lot more to Vicenza than I ever expected! 

Many of the city's structures were designed by the 16th century architect Andrea Palladio.  Palladio was commissioned to rebuild much of Vicenza following the war that was waged against Venice by the League of Cambria.  Palladio built public buildings as well as private villas.  These elegant villas and palaces were quite influential in the classical architecture of Britain and later in the US.  The most notable being Thomas Jefferson's Monticello.

The photos I've attached to this post are of the Teatro Olimpico, Palazzo Chiericati and the Piazza dei Signori, which is where Palladio's basilica is also located.  The sculptures in the theatre are made of plaster and not marble, which was a new concept at the time.  When Napoleon the 1st attended a play at the theatre he didn't believe that the sculptures weren't marble so he took his sword to check.  To this day there is Napoleon's mark on the knee of one of the sculptures! 

The market was fascinating and had everything from cookware to fruit, sweaters to bread.  I already have a few items in mind that I need to go back for.  I also may have discovered one of the most delightful treats that Italy has to offer.  Hot chocolate!  But now what us Americans are accustomed to.  This hot chocolate was somewhere in between melted chocolate chips and warm chocolate pudding.  But it's wasn't too sweet so a person is able to drink (or spoon up) every last drop.  I've never had anything like it!

I know there will be many more discoveries made in our own back yard.  In addition to exploring with my husband I also now have some new friends to explore with as well.  Every big move has it's adjustment period and I feel as though the toughest of mine might be ending.  I'm really excited to immerse myself in the culture, language and new relationships that await me here.

Venice

My first visit outside of Vicenza was to Venice.  Nick and I made the short (1 hour) trip about 1 week after I arrived.  I also recently went back again for a newcomers orientation affiliated with my husbands job.  This orientation allowed me to meet some other American women that are also here because of their husband's work.  We had a wonderful tour guide, Carla (picture below) that grew up in Vicenza and went to college in Venice.  She was a wealth of information.

Both trips to Venice were chilly, rainy and windy.  So the pictures are a bit gray and I'm bundled up.  However, the weather does not cloud or dampen the Venice experience.  The city is unique with the canals being where the streets should be.  The boats coming and going delivering food, retails goods and people.  When Nick and I went we just decided to wander along the Grand Canal to see what we would see.  We found ourselves walking into courtyards that didn't lead anywhere or into dead ends.  It's a great city to get 'lost' in. 

There are numerous sites to see.  Many large churches, the Jewish ghetto, Rialto Bridge and the grand Piazza San Marco.  There is so much to see in a day that it's a bit overwhelming but I have a feeling that Venice will be a place that we visit often.  I can't imagine that any of our visitors will want to skip Venice.  I look forward to going back again and again.  This spring should be a bit sunnier and warmer!

The pictures attached are of the Santa Maria di Nazareth, The Basilica di San Marco, the Santa Maria della Salute (I'm sitting on the steps), the Santa Maria Assunta (which is a Jesuit church) and the Rialto Bridge.  Next to the bridge is a large market where clothes, household goods, jewelry, handbags, fresh meat, vegetables and fresh bread are sold.  By the time we arrived the market was packing up for the day so I guess it's wise to arrive early!

The Jewish ghetto of Venice has an interesting history.  It's a bit different from what most of us might assume a ghetto to be from WWII.  The area was pretty quiet when we walked through but Hanukkah coincides with Christmas this year and a large menorah will be erected in the Campo del Ghetto Nouvo starting this Sunday.  I've been told it's quite a sight so we may have to make a trip back this weekend.

The Basilica di San Marco was built to house the body of St. Mark back in 832.  Apparently St. Mark was buried in Alexandria, Egypt but his body was stolen in 828 by 2 Venetians.  The church was added to over time to become what it is today.  The gold mosaics inside the church were constructed during the medieval period.  Everywhere you will see sculptures of the winged lion, the traditional symbol of St. Mark.  This lion has now become the symbol of city of Venice.

Across the Piazza San Marco and around the corner is Harry's bar, the birthplace of the Bellini Prosecco cocktail.  It was created in the 1930's by Giuseppe Cipriani who named it after Giovanni Bellini, the 15h century Venetian painter.   For my champagne/prosecco/cava/sparkling wine-loving friends...this will be the perfect place to kick off a day in Venice.  :)  Another fun tidbit is that Ernest Hemingway had his own table in the corner of the bar during the winter of 1949/1950 and mentioned Harry's several times in his book 'Over the River and Into the Trees'.

I'm sure I'll write much more about Venice in the future as we take more and more trips to this fascinating city.  I'll discover more and more throughout the next 3 years and I'm very much looking forward to it.